Alternative Preservation Goes Natural

Germany-based Dr. Straetmans GmbH has successfully developed a strong fungicidal cosmetic ingredient that will be launched at this year’s In-Cosmetics in Amsterdam. With the development of Dermosoft 688 Eco (INCI: p-Anisic Acid), the fast growing segment of natural cosmetics will be able to benefit from innovative raw materials. The ingredient is derived from natural resources in a proprietary process accepted by certification bodies in Germany and France. The raw material is Ecocert listed. Natural preservation is often built on essential oils, which may have changing qualities depending on the origin or date of harvest or extracting procedure. Unlike natural mixtures of essential oils, which are often employed in natural cosmetics for alternative preservation, Dermosoft 688 Eco is a pure substance with reproducible and reliable efficacy.

Dermosoft 688 Eco, in combination with bactericidal components from the Dermosoft line, provides an excellent system against microbiological deterioration of cosmetic products. In an extensive study conducted at Dr. Straetmans, best results were achieved using combinations of Anisic Acid with bactericidal organic Acids (e.g. Dermosoft 700B, INCI: Parfum and/or membrane active compounds (e.g. Dermosoft GMCY, INCI: Glyceryl Caprylate). These systems have been used in conventional cosmetics for many years and have proven efficacy in hundreds of products.

Multifunctional cosmetic ingredients have—in addition to their antimicrobial properties, further cosmetic functions and are therefore not declared as preservatives where such declaration or labelling may be necessary or appropriate. According to the chemical nature, the cosmetic functions include masking, refatting or wetting.

The natural cosmetics segment with its steady double-digit growth rate is restricted to certain raw materials that are in line with the philosophy of sustainable use of resources. Thus, the main players in this segment are constantly exploring new raw materials and have reached—in spite of the limitations—an excellent level of cosmetic performance over the years.

However, there are still some open issues like hair conditioning, skin smoothing, emulsifying or preservation, where the natural cosmetics manufacturers are searching for more flexibility in formulating new products. With the launch of Dermosoft 688 Eco, another important step has been taken.

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